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HOMAGE TO MIUCCIA
by DIANA MARIAN MUREK
The presentation of the spectaculary staged Marc Jacobs runway show, for me, kind of saved NYFW. I love the sensorial and emotional artwork of Olafur Eliasson, and the recreation of ‘The Weather Project’ from 2003 really got under my skin. But what about the fashion that was shown?
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FASHION PHILANTHROPY
by DIANA MARIAN MUREK
Olafur Eliasson at The Tate Modern in 2003 becomes the backdrop for Marc Jacobs fall/winter 2013.
Marc Jacobs continues to bring contemporary art into the fashion world, kindly helping the fashion victim crowd become educated in something more than just the art of wearing things well.
This season he reminded us of the wonderful art installation ‘The Weather Project’, exhibited in 2003 at the Tate Modern in London by Olafur Eliasson, by recreating a huge sun and the same light effect for his runway by stage designer Stefan Beckman. I just love that philanthropic aspect of Mr. Jacobs’ work.
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BOYS WILL BE GIRLS
by DIANA MARIAN MUREK
I can get the necessity of having a nice co-ordination in your store between the menswear and the womenswear section, but turning a brand’s womenswear show in the exact copy of your menswear runway show, hmmmm, not so much.
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JEREMY SCOTT ALWAYS HAD IT IN HAND.
by DEBRA SCHERER
Elissa photographed by Steven Klein for French Vogue wearing a piece of Jeremy’s Viva Avant Garde collection. Anyone have a link to the Jean Baptiste Mondino video he showed?
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VIVA AVANT GARDE
by Gill Linton
I love Jeremy Scott. Consistently true to his brand, since back when Juicy Couture ripped off his spray painted “Viva Avant Garde” t-shirt, (I’m lucky to have that piece of future vintage.) Guaranteed no other designer has created anything quite like his designs....
NEW ORDER
by DIANA MARIAN MUREK
I really enjoyed seeing the show of Thom Browne fall winter 2013, especially because New York seemed to have a really slow start this season. But it is quite difficult to see his outfits and not to draw some connections, at least styling wise, to Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garcons “Wonderland” collection from 2009. Inspiration?
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PUBLIC IMAGE, LIMITED.
by DEBRA SCHERER
There was a time, long ago, when fashion shows were a private matter. Gone are the days when Coco Chanel sat at the top of the staircase of her Rue Cambon salon, peering down while a very small group of fashion professionals; buyers, editors and writers furiously sketched and took notes and made serious decisions as to what would fly and what would define at that moment in time the word chic. The take away was a perfect presentation, with no distractions, no peripheral information to distract from the task at hand, that of expressing the couturier’s vision in cut and draped fabric wrapped around living mannequins and finished off with flawless hair, makeup and accessories like icing on a cake.
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HERE’S TO THE IMPROBABLE
BY GILL LINTON
There have been some big decisions made by big fashion houses over the last six months. Those decisions are still playing out and have yet to play out. Today, we’re all assuming that one of those decisions was purely a creative one. And a risky one at that. Big business logic would and have minimized/obliterated all risk.
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IT’S NOT YOU. IT’S ME.
by GILL LINTON
I’ve really struggled to find something I like so far this NYFW.
And then I realized it’s not the collections, it’s me.
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Diane Von Furstenberg and the Continuity of a Dress.
by Diana Marian Murek
Diane Von Furstenberg photographed in 1972 by Roger Prigent, wearing her signature design and invention, the printed wrap dress, which instantly became a symbol of power and freedom for an entire generation of women in the seventies. Now, more than 40 years later, Cara Delavigne wears it well for DVF fall winter 2013. We even love how she captures the same spirit in her expression as she parades down the runway!
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1965 OR THIS MORNING? TAKE YOUR PICK.
by DIANA MARIAN MUREK
Sixties modernism continues to be “a thing” this season. Marisa Berenson photographed by Irving Penn for American Vogue in 1965 looks “chill up your spine” amazingly similar to Victoria Beckham’s color- blocked look from this morning.
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Cristobal Balenciaga/1963 becomes Tom Ford/2011
Then Is Now: Inspiration or Imitation?
by DIANA MARIA MUREK
On my blog Into the Fashion, I analyze current fashion trends based on their historical references and sources of inspiration. I discuss the process of creating collections by visualizing the cyclical nature of fashion and also the importance of being educated about fashion in order to understand it entirely. But when does inspiration end and pure imitation, a shameless copy of the creative work of another, begin?
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FASHION ON THE VERGE
BY DEBRA SCHERER
I’ve always been especially tough on American designers. Not because I find European design to be superior in any way, but rather, because as an American educated in the tradition of the New York school painters, I have always held the belief that the Americans should be the most daring, the biggest risk takers, having the best understanding of the new and sincerely not giving a damn about tradition. Yet, for the most part, the opposite has been true.
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FASHION WEEK IS GETTING OUT OF HAND
BY GILL LINTON
There aren’t subcultures like there used to be. Fashion has become so driven by mass consumerism that everyone looks the same and it’s hard to be really inspired anymore. It’s easy for people to dismiss fashion as being frivolous and superficial, (frankly most of it is), but when you look back at some of the most seminal subcultures in history, how people dressed played an important role in shaping identities, attitudes and beliefs.
